Author: Wanique Block

Since its resurrection in the late 70s, the evolution of streetwear has never been linear. Though times, styles and trends are constantly changing and evolving, the one thing that has remained constant is the culture. To many participants, streetwear is not just about the clothes, or the latest “drip”, it is about the culture; a culture that is embedded in community, fluidity, purpose, non-conformity and exclusivity. A concept that many brands like CORTEIZ, are all too familiar with. 

It’s been a little over a week since London-based street-wear brand Corteiz shut London down with its “Bolo Exchange”. Unlike generic marketing strategies like “drop culture;” for those who are unfamiliar, it’s an over-used strategy where brands release limited edition products in smaller quantities, Clint who is the founder and Creative Director of Corteiz, came up with a unique activation campaign and marketing strategy that set social media ablaze. 

Da Great Bolo Exchange saw many followers and participants exchange their high-end branded North Face, Supreme, Moncler and Stussy jackets for an unreleased CRTZ Bolo Puffer Jacket. Despite being met with mixed responses and reactions the exchange resulted in 16 000 (pounds) worth of swapped jackets that were then gifted to the homeless via a London-based charity called the St. Lawrence’s Larder.

Founded in 2017, Corteiz has developed a unique and distinctive aesthetic that is supported by the notion of exclusivity, rebellion and individualism. Through social media, clever marketing strategies and hype culture, Corteiz has cultivated a die-hard fan base that will literally do anything (and I mean anything) just to get a free CRTZ T-shirt, even if that means climbing fences or punching each other up at pop-up events. With iterations that include their signature joggers, distinctive balaclavas, bold graphics and powerful messages, it makes sense that Corteiz has attracted a mass cult-like following. 

Co-signed by the late Virgil Abloh, Corteiz continues to be at the forefront of streetwear and mainstream culture, pushing the boundaries of street-wear fashion and culture. Whether you love it or hate it, Corteiz has cemented itself and appears to be at the centre of streetwear fashion in the UK.

Luxury Fashion House Louis Vuitton has unveiled Virgil Abloh’s eighth and final Men’s Fall-Winter 2022 Collection. The collection titled, Louis Dreamhouse was presented during Paris Fashion Week at the Carreau du Temple in Paris.

Virgil Abloh, was not only the Creative Director for Louis Vuitton, he was a trailblazer, a creative genius, a visionary and the blueprint for many young Black and Brown creatives and talent across the world. With his unique take on fashion and design, Virgil’s contributions to the fashion industry have not only changed the trajectory of design as a whole but also paved the way for future generations. And even after his death in November 2021, Virgil Abloh remains one of the most influential and revolutionary designers in contemporary culture.

Since his appointment at Louis Vuitton in 2018, Virgil Abloh became the first African American Creative Director for Louis Vuitton’s Menswear line and in turn, he has bridged the gap between and changed the perception of high-end luxury fashion and streetwear culture. During his time at Louis Vuitton Abloh’s work often transcended societal archetypes and referenced child-like displays and imagery through gestures of surrealism.

This brings us to Virgil Abloh’s final collection, Louis Dreamhouse. Through the lens of Virgil Abloh’s central Boyhood Ideology, Abloh described this collection (according to the encyclopaedic notes of the show), as “a spark of imagination that turns into an eternal flame”. Presented as a coming of age story, this collection allows us to see the world through the “unspoiled” eyes of a child, who is yet to be influenced and affected by the preconceived notions of society.

Reminiscent of a mystical dream-land we see models dressed in beautiful unconventional garments stretching, contorting themselves and dancing, some walking backwards, dancers falling from staircases onto hidden trampolines, a semi-sunken pale blue house with a red roof and chimney, a king sized bed and an orchestra seated on a cartoon like table and stools, all of which reflect Virgil’s fascination with imagination and surrealism. 

Like a dream that transcends time and space, this collection moves beyond the boundaries of fashion, transmutes dress codes and deconstructs gender stereotypes. This is seen through the integration of bridal wear, streetwear and sportswear. From the intricate details and textural contrasts, to the vibrant colours, bold patterns and detailed silhouettes of each garment; beautifully crafted, showcases and revisits Virgil’s spin on tapestry, design and technique.

Louis Dreamhouse was exactly that, a metaphysical space of possibility, a  dreamscape through the eyes of Virgil Abloh.

Photographs Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.